![]() ![]() Spoke to Datatool (now Scorpion) who confirmed this is the correct procedure to bypass the immobilisers. 14 year old Datatool 3 wouldn't respond to either key fobs but moving the bike or turning on ignition set the alarm off. ![]() It seems that changing the battery with an S3 fitted is similar odds to Russian roulette! I shan't be buying another Datatool product. This means you can't isolate and protect the alarm when changing the battery. It's bad design that the plug in version doesn't have the line fuse protection that the hard wired version has. Without the other plugs and wires in place, you lose secondary electrical functions like indicators etc.Īlso contacted Datatool direct regarding how to replace the unit - Answer: go see a Triumph dealer and buy an S4! Short pins 1&2 and pins 5&6, start the bike, everything works. Unplug only the 6 pin connector, leave everything else in place. ![]() With the 'plug in' version, the alarm becomes an integral part of the bike's wiring harness so process slightly different: The bike's electrics are fully functional with a dead alarm except the immobiliser circuits aren't closed. Changed the battery and it went beserk then fried! Tried the 'de-spike' routine - failed. Triumph Daytona 955i 2004 with triumph fitted 'plug in' Datatool S3. Why not take up tech art? You'd be a natural. If you're thinking of using this information to steal motorbikes - you're an asshole. So just bridge both the whites, and bridge the yellows to bypass the unit while leaving all of the wiring in place (as shown in the photograph).Īnd that’s it. These are controlled by the white and yellow tags on the smaller cable block. There’s normally a circuit break immobilising the starter motor, and another immobilising the ignition or fuel pump. But the immobilisation part cuts the main loom and sends the circuit via the alarm, so these have to be bridged. Stuff like indicators are just spliced onto the bikes main loom leaving it operational, so if you cut the power to the unit they just work as normal. ![]() Green – protective trigger switch (to fire if a bike panel is lifted)īrown – to something that goes live with the ignition switch Yellow/green – external alarm/ radio pager There are two big cable connectors on the inside, one block of six and one of eight. Also all the cables come with colour code tags for install, but all the cables are black, so that after install you can’t tell what is what. A decent install splices the alarm into the guts of the bikes main wiring loom so to work out what each cable does from first principles you have to get pretty intimate with the innards. I suppose people might be a bit cagey about the wiring information as a security measure, but that means that it costs hundreds of pounds to install an alarm, and then loads more to take it out again when it breaks. Basically if you want to look after your bike, you need to get a shed. The alarm systems go off all the time when you’re not wanting them to, get tired and lock you out of your own bike in remote lay-bys, drain the battery when the bike’s in storage, cost loads of you loads of money and generally are a bit crap. And it’s kind of hacking… anyway what good is a sideshow without transport? Not exactly Sonic Sideshow information I know - but damn useful all the same. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |